After 54 1/2 hours door to door (Sardinia to Newberg) I was thrilled to wash the travel grit off my tired self and flop into my own bed. Nine hours later I was refreshed and ready to get back to work. And although I had been “at work” while researching cannonau in Sardinia it was framed by the majestic Mediterranean.
I was reminded a couple of years ago about cannonau and the history of the Crown of Aragon who at one time was “given” the isle of Sardinia. We are told that they brought garnacha with them, although many Sardinians would beg to differ. What there is agreement on however is that what is called cannonau in Sardinia is the same grape known as garnacha in Spain and grenache in France. Hence, my need to explore and research.
We took the overnight ferry from Civitavecchia to Olbia, arriving in the very early morning, around 6:30. It was a Sunday and the place was as expected very quiet. The brilliant blue sky was a stunning wake up call, the silence almost eerie. We meandered along the coast enjoying the beautiful Porto Cervo and were soon rewarded with a cappuccino and a brioche fresh from the oven. It took a bit to find towels and the perfect beach but we did. We rented an umbrella to keep the fair skinned fair and picked up a bit of sleep denied us on the boat (lack of time, not lack of sleeping quarters). By 1:00 we were famished and found the quintessential shack on the beach…ah, but with an immaculate kitchen and a grill sizzling with the catch of the day. We each picked a different fish, ordered a green salad, a dry vermentino, fries, and lingered over an impeccable repast.
David Boning Our Luncheon Fish
Lining Up for the Ferry to Sardinia
Darkness Descends
And the People Pile In Along with the Cars
Packed in Like Sardines!
Majestic Morning
Along the Porto Cervo
Finding the Perfect Beach
Corsica in the Distance
SAVED from Our Tires!
Aragonese Watch Tower
Sunday in Sardinia
Since it was early in the “season” we decided to head over without the benefit of hotel reservations wanting complete freedom to explore. We did have however some serious maps and instructions on finding Sardinia’s best wineries and vineyards.
Treasure Map handed to David in Hong Kong by Sardinian Winemaker
View from Our Hotel, Night One
- Preparing Dinner
Always the Grill, Always Fresh Fish
An Ancient Nuraghe
Inside Cantina del Vermentino di Monti
Cork Trees Recently Harvested
Cork on Its Way to the Factory
Azienda Vitivinicola Giuseppe Gabbas
Cagliari, Capital of Sardinia
Yep, Old Vine Cannonau
Back on the Ferry
Fields of Girasole on the Road Back to Rome for the Flight Home
We were treated to a perfect week of sunshine (OK, hot…over 100 degrees) but softened by the coastal breezes. We ate fish each day, most of it within hours of the catch. The people were….well, Italian, and therefore friendly, helpful, and happy.
Will there be an Old Vine Grenache Project cannonau? You can count on it!
