Archive for 'France'

The final delight after an exhilarating morning of mushroom hunting is the meal that follows. Late afternoon was time to clean the bounty. By the time I arrived at the Calvets for dinner Jean-Roger and darling daughter Constance had cleaned our haul of craterellus (never to young to learn). Marie, with the assistance of son Hugo whipped up an omelette that tasted like no other.

The haul cleaned and prepped for the evening meal:

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Constance relaxing after an afternoon of mushroom cleaning:

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Hugo (on the eve of his 12th birthday) preparing the omelette:

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Craterellus in the pan sizzling to perfection:

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Preparing dinner is a family affair:

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My first foraged meal:

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The weather has taken a turn here and winter has arrived. Although it is not cold out it is wet and windy. Really a day to sit by the fire but that is not my day. First, I don’t have a fireplace, but more importantly friends from Oregon are here today and we will be enjoying a leisurely French Friday lunch. Knowing that the afternoon will be very quiet (euphemism for nap) I thought I should get some work done early.

Hunting for mushrooms is serious fall endeavor for the southern French. Families spend weekends in the mountains gathering champignon and picnicking in the woods. And as the saying goes, “When in Rome….”.

Friends Carrie and Marcel had had a successful day hunting and gathering the week prior and as we had consumed the final catch in our pumpkin soup it was time to fill the cupboards.

We made an early start. The day could not have been more beautiful. The sky was a crystalline blue with one or two fluffy clouds. The wind was still sleeping off yesterday’s hangover. Almost two hours later we arrived at the most beautiful side of a mountain with the babbling brook and the forest floor sporting a copper and gold carpet of leaves.

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It is amazing as you first look about and see just the forest and then slowly the magic presents itself.

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Carrie packed a delicious lunch enjoyed after a full morning of gathering. We brought along a frying pan and olive oil for an added lunchtime treat.

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We were joined on this outing by the great interns this harvest at Domaine des Enfants, Davide from Sardinia (yes, great coincidence since David and I were just there. Learned more about the treasured old vines of the island).

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And Pascal from Switzerland.

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The ‘shrooming bug has also bit Marcel and Carrie. As we drove the longer scenic route home we made many quick roadside stops when we spotted those little caps winking at us from the side of the road. And indeed, we were not alone in the hunt. This was a typical “look” as we drove homeward.

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Final stop was at a small roadside cafe where we quenched our thirst and watched the sun slipping behind the mountains.

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I arrived in Maury to the first sounds and smells of another vendage. The whites had been picked and were just beginning their transformation into delicate and aromatic wines. There was a decided break while waiting for the reds to reach optimal flavor and phenolic ripeness. The previous year had been hot, hot, hot with six brutal weeks of temperatures in the 90’s. This year was decidedly different. The sun made only an occasional appearance and was usually accompanied by wind. I had never seen wind damage like this before where actual full sized clusters were whipped off the vine….and so close to picking time.

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Two thousand and twelve was already a year where weather had battered the vines. Hail in both April and August had lightened the load considerably and there was constant pressure from oidium. I immediately made a trip to each of my little vineyards (OK, at this point NOT my vineyards due to a weird banking snafu. The money was “lost” in transit…now really Wells Fargo, I’m supposed to believe that??).

La Mouriane, the more easterly vineyard is approximately 65 years in age. The vineyard is remarkably healthy and vines have a full canopy. This is particularly important here where the sun can be intense. The shade is greatly appreciated by the clusters and the winemaker. On first tasting the berries were still fresh and full of acid with the beginning flavors of red raspberry and black currant.

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The westerly vineyard, Falgauayra sits on bare schist. The vines are closer to 85 years and they show their additional age. Canopy was sparse, but still a virulent green. The crop was small but the berries were juicy and succulent with black cherry notes supported by a distinct spiciness.

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The low crop made for a slow easy harvest. Each day we would pick and process with very little backup or need to push. The fruit ripened slowly due to the cool weather and cloud cover. The acids remained high and the fruit maintained a lovely freshness.

We picked my fruit on the last day of harvest, October 4th. At this point the money for the vineyard purchase still had not arrived (it was getting downright embarrassing!). I had Wells put a trace on it and miracle upon miracles it instantly was found.

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The boxes of grapes were put into the cooler (a refrigerated container) overnight so we could process the fruit cold. The morning of Friday the 5th we gently placed one cluster at a time on the conveyer, through the destemmer and then the berries were dropped onto the sorting table running at a very slow speed. Practically every berry was given a little smootch on the way to the fermenter!

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After a celebratory lunch Jean-Roger (who was signing for my cousin, my partner in this purchase) and I drove the short ten minutes to Estragel to the office of the notary to sign the papers.

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After 36 years in the business I finally have a little piece of dirt to call my own. Happy does not come close to a proper descriptor for my feelings. Not even sure”ecstatic” is adequate!

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As one can imagine everything that I am doing now is on a steep learning curve. Certainly general winemaking practices apply particularly those about good housekeeping as sanitation is the backbone to the cellar. But otherwise the grape variety itself, the age and layout of the vineyard, the growing issues specific to southern France and the Roussillon, and the techniques employed in the winery are all new. This of course is the excitement but can also be frustrating.

So, imagine my delight when my friend Carrie Sumner told me that she was going to make a pinot noir. She and her husband Marcel have a small winery in Maury, Domaine des Enfants www.domaine-des-enfants.com. Of course they make the wines that are known from this area, grenache gris/blanc, grenache noir and carignan. But Carrie is from Oregon and has wanted a small project of her own so pinot noir was a natural. She and Marcel found the fruit in Limoux. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically which is in keeping with their philosophy of farming here in Maury.

I took the morning off to hang out and provide moral support. It was also fun in that I could share all that I had learned on the specifics of pinot noir such as no crushing, whole berries only, a three to five day cold soak, punch down protocol, etc. Of course they attacked this project in the same meticulous way that they handle their other grapes. They literally review EVERY cluster and by hand remove any unwanted berries (this is after severe triage in the vineyard). For 1/2 a day I felt completely at home. Thanks Carrie and Marcel!

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Finally I had to call old age and take a day off. The morning was gray and damp and I thought that I had chosen badly, but by 11:00 the clouds had been blown west and the sun appeared. I headed into town to have lunch with my Maury neighbor Ron, who is an exceptional photographer www.ronscherlphotgraphy.com on sabbatical from life in the states. What a delight to sit down for a true French lunch and linger over delicious food, a hearty bottle of wine and a perfect cheese course to put the harvest in perspective. A look at the scrumptious main course:

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After lunch agenda included a few errands. My phone had been acting up (turned out to be the battery) so I stopped into the Orange store (the primary French carrier) to try to resolve the problem. Being without a phone for calls and texts is sooooooooo 80’s! With little imagination one can conjure up my rudimentary conversation trying to describe the issue with the phone (sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, it shuts itself off…yeh, must be reflexive….). But thankfully I happened on a young delightful patient woman who took my challenge in stride and sorted out my issue. Well, actually the phone shut itself off and I think that did it. I left with a new phone, but not until I had done some browsing. I have heard that everything comes back into style but really?:

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Next up was the purchase of a dustbuster. The apartment that I enjoy has wooden floors. They are easy to keep clean except of course for the dust bunnies (yes, they are everywhere!). I was not surprised to see such a large selection. The French are nothing if not anal about their housekeeping. The commercials on the TV are a scream:

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And finally a stop at the grocery store. There are two small Carrefours (one of the big four chains) near me, each in a neighboring town (nope, no groceries in Maury). This is a new supermarche and stocked with every wonderful delicious French food imaginable. Just the square footage alone devoted to pig meat is enough to make one worship at the French table.
And the cheese…..bigger and better than our best except perhaps Murray’s, and the wine, oh la la!

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